So where are the pickies Mike?

Sorry that it's taken so long to meet the oft-heard request to post some pictures. It wasn't easy in the States to find a town....which had a library....which was open......which allowed me more that 30 minutes on a computer.

Luxuriating in the sophistication of staying in Perth I offer you here some of the pictures of the trip.

Follow the link on the right hand side of this page to my Skydrive folder

Mike

Bloody oaf

Biddy and I looked at each other as he said this. We thought we were having a lovely conversation with this guy from Wellington as we cooked together at the Castlepoint campsite and then he comes out with this "Bloody Oaf". Had we inadvertently offended him?

Seeing our awkward glances he realised we were foreigners (there's a lot of them here in NZ. So much so that one of the normal greetings from anyone here seems to be "Which country are you from?"). Anyway, his wife translated for us. "Oh, bloody oaf just means, 'yep, sure, definitely'. It's obvious isn't it.

Actually we've been more struck by another totally foreign language the Kiwis speak. It's a little like American, though stronger. The best way of describing it is "positive". Everything is positive and the sun is shining (even when it isn't....and it definitely wasn't as we waded through a tidal estuary on the Abel Tasmin 'tramp' (i.e. walk...) at 6am this morning in the Abel Tasmin national park. Ass an example....Biddy was corrected at lunchtime today by the kayak instructor. "No, the weather's not bad....it's just raining". See what I mean. Let's hope I can take just a little bit of this new language , "positinglish" back to the UK when I return to counter the cycnicism and negativity that I realise is so prevalent.

So...what have we been doing, I hear some of you mutter. Well a bit of kayaking and walking in the Abel Tasmin nathional park in the north end of South Island. We drifted into a huge flock of shearwater (look that one up in Wikipedia if you've no idea what I am talking about) , paused in the two day kayak trip to watch New Zealand fur seals frolicking in the surf and marvelled at the Australasian gannet diving for fish yards from the kayak.

We stayed in lovely bunk house huts along the way, visited empty beaches with no road or track to them.

Oh....and to my great delight because it's on a 'list' of things I must see before I die, we spied sperm whales off Kiakoura earlier this week.

Am I enhoying myself? Is this good. Yep, or "sweet as" as they say in New Zealand.

No worries mate.

you must be French....

that's what the lady in the rzther rougn bar said as she came up to us. The place was full of tattoed and rather drunk mostly Maori jumping up and down cheering.

Usually I'd might take offence at being labelled as a member of that nation we Brits like to taunt but I could understand why the lady hzd made the remark. Seconds earlier the All Blacks had, just, beaten the French ag the World Cup final and tne fact that se were European and not dancing around meant we were surely crestfallen Gallic visitors. Seeing the final on a big screen amongstthe Kiwis was a specialevent. Needless to saythe overdue win has meant an AWFUL lot to the nation.

Thankfully I've not ceased cycling altogether. Biddy abd I did a 50km mountain bike ride through the remote bush in Tongoriro natiinal park - where those three volcanoes appear in Lord of the Rings. It really was remote. We saw no-one else in six hours of riding exceot a couple if hunters on quad bikes. we realised that it might be a little remote when the hirer gave us an emergency satelite beacin to use if we got into trouble. The best bit of tge 'ride' was having to wade waist deep across rivers with the bikes on our shoulders.

The Kiwi people really are lovely. There's a positiveness like I found in the US, but a warmth and deeper interest in you. It's vert attractive.

The notices pinned up tell a lot about the place, just as they did in the US. The Americans would put up signs saying 'do not litter - violators will be persecuted under state law 352 and summararily shot' - I made up that last bit. In New Zealand the notices szy 'please don't litter - thankyou'.

I know which notice I'm likely to take more notice if.

We managed the magnuficent Tongorira Crossing this week. Much of it was in snow as we wandered up over the volcanoes with great clefts in the crater belching sulpherous gases. "awesome" as they'd say in America.

Last night was rather wet. So much rain fell that we awoke to find tge tent sitting in about three centimetres of water and Biddy's crocks floating in the tent foyer. So....we treated ourself to a hostel this evening in Napier.....only to discover that there's kareoke going in in tge bar below our window. Tomorrow perhaps we'll head back to the quiet......and rain...of the mountains?

Betrayal!

What would you say if I confessed that I've turned my back on my constant partner, day and night, for the last two months? More than that, I've taken her apart and, with a guilty pang, unceremoniously, stuffed her into a box and left her.

Without wishing to be melodramatic I feel a slight sense if loss being without my bike.

I walked, yes, it did feel odd, down to Venice beach, Los Angeles thus morning. Nice.....but not a patch on our West Country beaches.

It's overcast this morning and i'm even wearing a fleece. Time for a change if hemisphere perhaps? I am deeply thankful for this chance to swan around the world. The dream will end eventually, I know.Till then I'm gunna enjoy it and give thanks.

Of snorkling, sea lions and surf.....

Nope, it's not exactly cycling, I know, but this morning saw me togged up in a wet suit bobbing up and down in the Pacific Ocean snorkling. It was, unusually, a bit of a misty morning and the visibility in the water wasn't geat but I rejoiced in seeing pelican flying overhead and sea lion (or were they seal....I need to check this out) basking on the rocks. As Steve and I dried off we saw a small pod of dophin cruise by. Idyllic eh?

I've been warmly welcomed into Steve and Marie's lovely home and am again enjoying wonderful Californian hospitality. San Diego reminds me of Perth: everyone up early in the morning running, cycling or swimming. Wide empty roads, clean and prosperous. I can see why people live in San Diego.

We've a party here tonight! Then it's back on the road for the last hundre miles or so into Irvine to meet Ella and box the bike.

"Be prepared to stop"

I've been seeing it since I first started the ride back in Washington in mid August.

Every few miles there are these big orange roadsigns that they erect before every bit of roadworks. I'd thought that they were something to do with the roadworks or something but now, I realise, they've been put up just for me! And, to my shame, I've not been taking any notice of them until today when I realise that I should have been paying attention and, yes, preparing myself to stop.

I reached a scadgy, dusty little town this morning. There was a little roadside cafe, lots of border guards and a slight edginess to the place. It was Tacate. The town I've been heading for for the last 4000 km. I got there this morning at 10:30am 'pacific west' time (that's 81:30hrs UK time and 06:40hrs the next day (Thursday) NZ time.

I realised that I hadn't 'prepared myself to stop' andnow feel all rather empty and pointless! I cycled back up the hill to Protrero and treated myself to a grilled chicken sandwich and pepsi and the waitress was good enough to sound impressed at my achievement. She even took a photo of me.

I'm still suffering a little from whatever ailed me at Oak grove t'other day. I think I've still got a bit of a temperature. Still, it's off to the campsite now for a shower and rest and a 60km ride into San Diego tomorrow to stay, I hpe, at Steve's house. Steve and I rode together into Kings Canyon Park earlier on the ride.

My thanks to you for following me and encourgaing me along the way. Your little words of encouragement have meant the world to me.

San Diego and then Irvine to meet Ella beckon.....

Da na na na na na, d'ne na na na nana

yep, those of a certain age will have spotted immediately that this is the theme tune to The High Chapparel tv series. You remember don't you. Boy Blue, Sinorita, that smikey Mexican dude and the plumb and often drunk cowboy.

Why mention this now, I hear you ask? Well, i've been riding through what they call the high chapparel for the last few days. Highish, scrubby landscape, the occasiinal cactus, dry very dry. All the 'rivers' - creeks as the Americans call them - are just dry beds. In the midst of this scrubby semi-desert are clearings where there are ranches with horses in. Goodness knows how the horses survive since the ground is just dry dust. There's not a blade of grass to be seen.

I had a bit of a conundrum this morning. Do i stay put of press on? The reason for this is tgat i spent much of last night pottering the 300m or so across the empty campsite in Oak Grove trying, sometimes in vain, to get to the toilet, repeatedly, because if a nasty bout of D&V.
I woke this morning feeling as if iwas hung over. Thumping head and dehydrated. Do i press on on an empty tummy or stay put in the empty campsite and continue to drink tne water whuch may hzve been the source of my problem.
I pressed in and paid more than i would typically do so to stay at the 'ranch' at Warner Springs. Still feeling a bit weak and feeble....but am popping loperimide and rehydration sachets.
Ok, ok, too much detail. Sorry. I've got to tell someone about it though.

I keep thinking I've done the last big miuntain, only to be confronted by another one. I'm heading for Miunt Laguna tomorrow, tummy-allowing a d then it really is downhill-ish to the Mexiczn border Almost there.

My thanks to you fir trackinb my progress and the encouraging nites. They've kept me going.

Mike

A Big White Bear

I awoke to a light dusting of snow this morning and minus 4 degrees C so I'm going to hunker down one more day at Big Bear and loaf around. There's a chance of snow again today.

Tomorrow I'll tackle the Onyx Pass and head south to the border - honest.

Should I have brought my snow chains for the bike I wonder?

A Big Wet Bear

Be careful what you wish for......

After worrying for weeks about the heat, getting up at silly o'clock in the morning to ride in the cool of the day and wishing for a little cool and dampness the weather's suddently turned all, well, British! It's just above freezing outside, snow is forecast for tonight and tomorrow and I am worried that I may not be able to make it over the pass tomorrow.

Thankfully I made it into the town of Big Bear (lovely name isn't it) up at about 7000 feet in the mountains. I've found a warm, welcoming and empty place at Big Bear hotel where I've hunkered down under my duvet for the last day and done lots of sleeping and eating. I may just extend my stay here until the sunshine reappears, as promised, in a day or so.

Or maybe I should stay for the winter snowboarding season that, by all accounts, is about to start soon?

I must go now to rummage in the depths of my panniers to find that cag, thermal layer, snuggler and overshoes. I knew I brought them through the deserts of California for a reason.

Beauty is definitely in the eye of the beholder

yep, i know that it's a truism to state that....but I've been struck as I wind my way down this country through high mountains, vast pine forests, granite valleys, giant sequioa forests, desert and scrubby hill how the locals are always at pains to say how beatiful their countryside is. Much of it is pretty. Much of it is, sell, frankly dry and scrubby. I find myself looking and the sage brush covered mountains and thinking......it's not as nice as Dartmoor or the ride down to Budleigh.

Don't get me wrong. I am appreciating what i am seeing. What I am also experiencing though is a deepening appreciation and love for my own home. I guess this enables me to be able to say that my own home is beautiful.

Today was supposed to be a short, easy ride. What I hate to do on a ride this is go backwards or down....so when i was told my intended campsite was back dosn the hill i was having none of it. I pressed on up the aptly-named 'Rim of the world highway' which clings to the mountains 6000ft above the plain where smogging LA sits.

I ended up climbing all day up to 6000ft and have made ut to Running Springs.

Motivating myself is getting a little difficult as i enter the last few hundred kilometers. It doesn't help that the end point, LA, is just below me on the plain.

Weather beginning to cool a little with rain forecast up at Big Bear at 7500ft tomorrow, it sounds like i need to be in the UK if i want hot weather!

Beauty is definitely in the eye of the beholder

yep, i know that it's a truism to state that....but I've been struck as I wind my way down this country through high mountains, vast pine forests, granite valleys, giant sequioa forests, desert and scrubby hill how the locals are always at pains to say how beatiful their countryside is. Much of it is pretty. Much of it is, sell, frankly dry and scrubby. I find myself looking and the sage brush covered mountains and thinking......it's not as nice as Dartmoor or the ride down to Budleigh.

Don't get me wrong. I am appreciating what i am seeing. What I am also experiencing though is a deepening appreciation and love for my own home. I guess this enables me to be able to say that my own home is beautiful.

Today was supposed to be a short, easy ride. What I hate to do on a ride this is go backwards or down....so when i was told my intended campsite was back dosn the hill i was having none of it. I pressed on up the aptly-named 'Rim of the world highway' which clings to the mountains 6000ft above the plain where smogging LA sits.

I ended up climbing all day up to 6000ft and have made ut to Running Springs.

Motivating myself is getting a little difficult as i enter the last few hundred kilometers. It doesn't help that the end point, LA, is just below me on the plain.

Weather beginning to cool a little with rain forecast up at Big Bear at 7500ft tomorrow, it sounds like i need to be in the UK if i want hot weather!

Beauty is definitely in the eye of the beholder

yep, i know that it's a truism to state that....but I've been struck as I wind my way down this country through high mountains, vast pine forests, granite valleys, giant sequioa forests, desert and scrubby hill how the locals are always at pains to say how beatiful their countryside is. Much of it is pretty. Much of it is, sell, frankly dry and scrubby. I find myself looking and the sage brush covered mountains and thinking......it's not as nice as Dartmoor or the ride down to Budleigh.

Don't get me wrong. I am appreciating what i am seeing. What I am also experiencing though is a deepening appreciation and love for my own home. I guess this enables me to be able to say that my own home is beautiful.

Today was supposed to be a short, easy ride. What I hate to do on a ride this is go backwards or down....so when i was told my intended campsite was back dosn the hill i was having none of it. I pressed on up the aptly-named 'Rim of the world highway' which clings to the mountains 6000ft above the plain where smogging LA sits.

I ended up climbing all day up to 6000ft and have made ut to Running Springs.

Motivating myself is getting a little difficult as i enter the last few hundred kilometers. It doesn't help that the end point, LA, is just below me on the plain.

Weather beginning to cool a little with rain forecast up at Big Bear at 7500ft tomorrow, it sounds like i need to be in the UK if i want hot weather!

USA......land of the Big Mac and Burger King.....

well, actually no. Until I rode into Palmdale today I don't think I'd actually come across a Macdonalds. I've spent the last few weeks popping into diners which are single, family-owned and quaint. I find it heartnening that this is so in corporate America.

What's also interesting is that one can pitch up at one of these diners at half past five in the morning and they are full of people having breakfast. The Americans seem to get up early and going out for breakfast.

Started cycling in the dark to get a headstart on the heat. Speediest 80km of the tour so far as we sped across the edge of the Mojave desert beside the San Andreas rift into Palmdale. All the signs starting to be in Spanish. A bit claustrophobic being in a city the size of Exeter.

Oiled and tightened the bike in my hotel room. A bit too hot to be camping...which is probably why there are no campsites.

Up into the mountains again tomorrow: the coolness a reward for the climb.

USA......land of the Big Mac and Burger King.....

well, actually no. Until I rode into Palmdale today I don't think I'd actually come across a Macdonalds. I've spent the last few weeks popping into diners which are single, family-owned and quaint. I find it heartnening that this is so in corporate America.

What's also interesting is that one can pitch up at one of these diners at half past five in the morning and they are full of people having breakfast. The Americans seem to get up early and going out for breakfast.

Started cycling in the dark to get a headstart on the heat. Speediest 80km of the tour so far as we sped across the edge of the Mojave desert beside the San Andreas rift into Palmdale. All the signs starting to be in Spanish. A bit claustrophobic being in a city the size of Exeter.

Oiled and tightened the bike in my hotel room. A bit too hot to be camping...which is probably why there are no campsites.

Up into the mountains again tomorrow: the coolness a reward for the climb.

USA......land of the Big Mac and Burger King.....

well, actually no. Until I rode into Palmdale today I don't think I'd actually come across a Macdonalds. I've spent the last few weeks popping into diners which are single, family-owned and quaint. I find it heartnening that this is so in corporate America.

What's also interesting is that one can pitch up at one of these diners at half past five in the morning and they are full of people having breakfast. The Americans seem to get up early and going out for breakfast.

Started cycling in the dark to get a headstart on the heat. Speediest 80km of the tour so far as we sped across the edge of the Mojave desert beside the San Andreas rift into Palmdale. All the signs starting to be in Spanish. A bit claustrophobic being in a city the size of Exeter.

Oiled and tightened the bike in my hotel room. A bit too hot to be camping...which is probably why there are no campsites.

Up into the mountains again tomorrow: the coolness a reward for the climb.

Some may thnik this is cheating.......

....but I can assure you it's not. John, my very kind host for the past two days, and I set off in the dark this morning from his home in Kernville , California to beat the heat and the traffic of the day. we climbed three nasty little summits, with the grade peaking out at 13%. I carried ALL my stuff, I can assure you but then at midday as the temperature moved into the nineties John's wife, Linda, kindly met us in the car and drove us home again! That's nice isn't it.

Tomorrow Linda will drive us up to where we left off today and we'll continue the route.

We needed to do this because the 60 miles or so from here south had nowhere to camp or stay and the land was privately owned.

I've managed to upload some more photos onto the Sky drive so have a look for the link to the right hand side of the blog page and you should be able to see these. Apologies that some are not aligned properly nor annotated but they'll give you a feel for what I've been staring at from my bike for the last few weeks.

Morning Mike, watch out for that blackwidow spider

I'd just woken to the sound of coyote howling at the moon. It was pitch dark, 5:30am and the warning came to me from behind a head torch as I pootled off to the toilet block. Needless to say that my morning ablutions didn;t take long and were conducted very carefully.

The warning came from Steve, a fellow tourer who'd pitched up at the campsite at Piedra the night before with the greeting "you must Mike be the British cyclist". In fact that's how I've been greeted a number of times recently. Steve, from San Diego, was really good company, filling me in on some of the politics and culture of the US as we rode the hard hard mountain up to Grant Grove Village to see the giant sequoia. It was good to ride with someone again. Whilst I took a rest day Steve headed off and John, from Kernville had pressed on a day earlier too. This meant that they primed every other cyclist in California to look out for me , hence the familiar greeting whenever I met a fellow cyclist.

I went to see the General. He was not particularly tall compared to the rest but with a girth to make any American proud. He's possibly 3000 years old I think. That is enough to cut one down to size and get every thing in proportion. Imagine a tree, in this case General Sherman, being that old. These giant sequoia are magnificent. Last night I pitched my tent at the feet a one of these giants at a place called Camp Nelson.

Guess what? I saw a bear, I really did, really, really honestly. I know you'll not believe me after the bovine mistake earlier in the trip. There was no doubting it this time. He looked kinda cuddly and smaller than I'd imagined but he really was an all American Californian black bear. Fortunately this was in broad daylight and I was in my bike. I might form a different opinion if I'd me him in the middle of the night when in my tent.

Today has been a lovely day. A climb of 2500 feet to reach the top of the mountain pass at 7500 feet, lovely and cool, giant trees surrounding me, clear blue Californian sky and then a big descent into the dry hills, alongside the kern river and into Kernville where I am staying with John and Linda. They invited me into their home after John and I cycled together near Yosemite. Isn;t that kind. And what a treat it is to sit here with a bed to sleep on tonight and a barbeque in the offing :)

It's the closest thing to being a modern day cowboy....

...that's what Larry told me in Yosemite yesterday as we chatted at the foot of Half Dome. "You can ride where you want and please yourself". I kinda agree with some of Larry's sentiment. There's a freedom to being able to wander across the massive continent. I can't quite wander over the prairies following cattle though since there are 'no respassing' signs on any private land and the wild, untamed land is not what my bike's kitted out for.

Life seems to have taken on a dream-like quality. I've lost track of the days and everything has boiled down to the simple necessities: water, somewhere to camp, food, the next milestone along the road. There's something very basic and fundamental about it all that is liberating. I realise of course that this is all a little false since Biddy is at home still dealing with all the 'stuff' that needs sorting just to exist in the world. I hope though that I can hold onto this.

Yosemite was indeed breathtaking. It made me want to hold my breath and whisper it was so beautiful and dramatic (both of which are a little tricky when you're at 9000feet and trying to drag body and bike up the pass....). An impressive gem. I am sure if I'd walked along the trails into the mountains I'd soon be shot of the crowds there.

I cycled out of the Yosemite valley this morning as the sun rose and tipped El Capitan with an orange, early-morning sunrise. Looking up at the 3000 foot wall I could just make out a couple of climbing tents affixed to the wall a couple of thousand feet up.

I've pressed onto North Fork today so that I can get a shower (somewhat overdue again) and connect back to the world. At the lower altitudes it's hot as I move into Southern California.

The last four days I've cycled with Harrold, a Californian retired sherrif. He, unlike me, has been able to upload his photos so if you want to see what we've been seeing these last few days check out his web site here www.crazyguyonabike.com/spandoman

John, a retired fireman from Southern California cycled with us yesterday and he and I bumped into each other again this morning. He is doing the Sirerra cascades route (pronounced "rowt" here...) so he and I will probably see a lot more of each other.

Spirits high. Traffic is busy enough to demand constant concentration. Legs bearing up remarkably well.

have a nice day.....

yes, I realise that it's just something that Americas say, like we might say cheerio or cheers but after five weeks of being wished a nicd day it still makes md smile and feel better

I reckon there's more to it than z mere automatic polite farewell though. I think it captures some of the sunny, positive outlook that Americans have. Not for them the negative, cynical and destructive approach that we seem to rejoice in in the UK.

I need to issue a correction about Diary Milk. The day after i bemoaned the absence of the food of gods - Diary Milk, i stubled across some for sale. I quickly bought a couple of big bars and, because of the heat, HAD to eat them quickly in one, mouth stretching scoff. I've seen no more for sale. It was just one of those God-given little gifts that have kept me going. What i said about Hershey bars though David HG stands.

Over the last few days i've repeatedly come across ntices tellinb me to be lbear aware'. They are here and active, i am assured. So, food, suncream, soap, mossy cream all gets wrapped in my air tight bag and hunb in a tree at night. This doesn't stop me tnougn from wakinb most nights at any little snuffle, crackle or pad in the night.

The landscaoe has changed. I've left the Cascades and moved into the Sierra Nevada mountains. Gone are the one-off 'strato volcanoes'. I'm amongst older mountains, jagged edges iron-ore tinged. I pulled my bike and body over Monitor Pass 8400ft this morning. Up there it was very quiet, the air was cool and clean, the view was blue-tinged. The lonb passes with 30km of climb are hard......but they are aften fol.owed by 30km of descent

I fear that the 'treat' of a cooked breakfast this morning at a cafe has possibly contributed to severe tummy upset this evdninb fortunately i'm in a caravsn with a toilet this evening rather than in a basuc campsute with a longdrop 100m away. Small blessings.

I'm in Bridgeport, California. Heading for Yosemite in a day or so.

The sun is setting on a spectacular vista of a wide plain with high, snow tipped mountains.

Beats going to work.

I met up with Harrold a touring cyclist from California on a two week ridd. It was good tl have some company for a change.

Thanks to you for your encouragement.

what's in a name?

Some of the names of things and places here are something to savour. T'other day I came over Dead Indian Summit, I've cycled pas numerous Big Bear Drives, I topped out at Dead Horse summit recently and cycled past Humbug Humbolt Road. Straight out of a JOhn Wayne Movie.

It's not just the road and pass names that are great. The RVs and trailers all seem to have names too that capture the essence of this place. Back in the UK we call our caravans things like Estelle, Comfort and Easy. Here they call their RVs Intruder, Wild Cat, Weekend Warrier. A different approach to camping I guess, and the name captures it all.

One little thing. I don't care what David HG says, Hershey bars just aren't very nice. There's something horribly sickly about the things that leave one feeling mildly uncomfortable. Can't beat a good Cadbury's Mil Chocolate.....and here in the US one can;t get a Cadbury's milk chocolate.

Have I been doing any cycling recently? You bet. I topped out at 8500feet this morning amongst the residual snow patches of Larssen Peak, a beautiful mountain area and the last of the 'stratovolcanoes' of the Cascades mountain range. I am now entering the Sierra Nevada mountain range. 105km clocked today to get me to a shabby little town of Greenville which, with a population of 1200 feels REALLY big and busy.

Last night I was treated to supper! A lovely evening round the fire with my fellow campers, Luke, jake and ?Maureen who are all travelers themselves and therefore 'get it' with what I am doing here. It was lovely to share stories and relax in the company of others. It beat that empty evening feeling one otherwise gets when settling down in a lonely campsite in the forest.

I ticked off 20km yesterday which mentally is half way . A good milestone....but makes me feel a little daunted that it is only half way!

Met a Belgian couple this morning who had to be in their mid sixties and were bike touring. They had just tcked off 3000km as I met them.

Thanks for all the encouragements, they are really strengthening to read.

captain slog, eighth day of september

Well, I hear I've been having some complaints about the spelling in my blog posts. Well, sorry guys, but its a bit tricky when you're trying to tap away on a tiny mobile phone screen with a dodgy battery and an iffy wifi connection. I'll try my best to improve things. Indeed today I'm sitting at a computer screen for the first time in a fortnight or so in the library at Mount Shasta.

"But doesn't that mean you've reached California?" I hear you ask. Yup, you got it (am I begining to sound like an American yet?) I sped into California on a rather hairy 11km of the Interstate 5 yesterday afternoon. Reaching the third and final state is another milestone under the belt.

I hear also that you've been asking if I am enjoying myself. What an impertinent question. Who ever said I was doing this for enjoyment eh? I must admit that it is hard cycling - both physically, dragging my bike of 40+kg over the high passes day after day, and mentally, going day after day alone on the roads with miles of nothing but pine forest or high praire / desert. It's a little like when one goes for a really long run or walk. It's demanding, but when it's over you are pleased with yourself.

So, what is a typical day like? Well, it's a lot better than going to work, that's what I keep telling myself. Up at 6:30am as the day lightens. A banana is what I scoff for breakfast usually and the tent all packed by 7am. This means I'm cycling in the cool of the morning before the sun is really up and before the traffic starts. The smels in the morning re wonderful - some familiar, others less so. The forest is normally deadly quite apart from the occasional ground squirrel or raven. I cycle through the miles and miles of pine forest (I whish I knew the difference between the different pine trees so I could identify them properly) or, today through miles and miles of ?prairie with yellow grass. Every 30 or miles or so I might be lucky enough to come across a 'town' which may, or may not, contain a petrol station selling donuts (that's how they spell them) or even a general store when I can stock up on bananas, muffins, danish pastries, power bars, noodles and tuna.

It's still very hot: in the high nineties yesterday which, when I am low down is very hot. It means I am typically carrying about four or five litres on me.

What do I spend my time doing? Well, my brain falls into a bit of a pattern like this....

* watch the road, there's all sorts of glass and nails on the verge there...
* what's that coming up behind me/ Another massive loggin truck, has he seen me?
* how far is it to the next junction where there MIGHT be a store to buy more noodles
* how many metres do I need to cycle higher to reach the pass?
* have I got enough water to keep me alive? Where can I get more water?
* have I got enough food to today, where can I buy food?
* Where will I sleep tonight?
* will there actually be water at the campsite tonight (often no....)
* who should I be praying for today?
repeat ad neaseaum.....

occassionally I look up at the spendid views too! Today I've been cycling up to a the hugh Mount Shasta, a mountain-shaped mountain that was clearly a volcano not too long ago.

Last night I slept in the back yard of the vafe in Hornbrrok because there was no campsite and the lovely people in the cafe allowed me their space. Tonight I am hoping to book into a proper campsite with water and showers! I've not had a shower in four days now! Imagine that in ninety degrees of heat! Kim will be appauled.

I met anoher trouing cyclist today! A German guy who's three weeks into a circular tour from San Francisco. We shared lunch together, A reach encouragement.

I saw a bear yesterday! I was cycling in the early morning through the forest, as you do, and the forest was opening up a little. I heard a snuffling in the woods. Shall I cycle on? Shall I stop and look? I cycled on, heart beating. Then I had second thoughts and turned around to look and see. I peered into the forest and there it was, big, and hairy and black and.......looking just like a cow.....


Thank you for continuing to follw me. knowing someone is keeping half an eye on my progress is really encouraging me.

I found out where all the cyclists are....

i cycked past a town called Bend yexterday and suddenly i found some cyclists. There was some sort ov organised race on, complete with motorcycle outriders and medic car. All of a sudden i turned into a street and found myself cycling towards a set of flags, a finishing line and hundreds of cyclistx parked up watching, well, me actually! What to do? Carry on to the finish line, wave to the crowd..... Over the tannot it was clear that the race riders were abiut to come round the corner. Do i continue? Well, i decided to pull up and squeeze behind tne barrier, just in time to witness a bunch sprint finish.

I continued on and up to Mount Bachelor at 6400ft. There were tens of cyclists, all on there lightweight bikes doing the Saturday mirning ridd up to the pass. They offered suitable encouragdment, which was what I needed on a climb of 50km.

Not a cyclist in sight today tnough. 100km of easier riding. Tomooriw I'll tackle Crater Lakes....climbung back up again to over 7000ft. theses passes are taking it out of me.

can i refill your soda sir?

here's a neat thing about the US. When i pass throughnthe occasional little town i'll sometimes treat myself at the diner. i've struggled to find a menu that includes any vegetables and even the salads come dripping with cheese and creamy stuff. However, one time i took up the offer....only to find that i dudn't get charged for thebrefill. this, it sees, is quite normal. I can get as many refills as i like...all fir free. This tickles me.

Stonking day yesterday: 8.5hours cycling through deep forest, no buikdings, about 20 cars all day. Yet another lovely camoground...but again with no water to wash with. after three days of sweating on the bike and without a shiwer i was beginning to smell a little fruity. So i've treated myself to a day off in a motel at Detroit Lake. There are some people here! In this tiwn of 200

how much is a nickle worth?

being a man i tend to shop with paper money and thereby accumulate sackfuls of change. no problem at home of ciurse since i can always give this small change to buddy to use. however, when one has to lug this half hundredweight of metal over several high passes everyday it makes ine tnink.....'hey, i wonder if there's something i can do to get rid of all that metal'? so....whilst shopping in Hood River i bring out my sack of change in the grocer. Trouble is....i don't really jnow what the money is worth...and my eyesught is now too poor to read whatls written on the coins. So, i start fumbling with the multiple sikver and briwn coins at the check out. I pull out a silver coin and ask the assistant 'what's this?' that's a nickle sir, says the assistant patiently. Trouble is, i don't know whzt a nickke is woth. Is is ten cents or fifty cents? Search me.

Now from all the cowboy movues i've watched i've hears about nickles and dimes but i've no idea how to shop wuth them.

With the queue griwing behind me the assustant finally takes my bag and picks out the right amount of change to pay my bill. all sirted....except, i've still no idea what a nivkle's worth.

Little milestones......

are what keep you going. Sometimes it's simply the next mile marker on the road or the next 100metres of ascent before I can take a break. Sometimes it's the fact thaht I've now cycled one of the fice sets of maps.

Other little milestones that keep me preoccupied....

I've clocked pu the first 1000km of riding this morning

I am about to leave Washton State and enter Oregon.

I need to keep the milestones small or I get daunted by the size of the challenge still ahead.

I am in Stevenson on the south side of Washington about to enter Cascade Locks and Mt Hood. Stunning views of Mount Rainer and Mout St. Helens yesterday and miles and miles of deep, dark pine forest.

I think I am putting on weight due to spending most of the day eating energy bars and danish pastries. I have yet to come across a menu in a diner that includes vegetables!

Still no cyclists!

Bears keeping a low profile.

Land of the free eh?

Yep, well that's what they claim and, sure they are 'free' but you know what the overriding impression is.....a land of 'rules'. There are so many 'DON'T' do this and 'DO 'do that, and don;t tresspass here, and 'no hunting' or 'no shooting' that one feels a little claustrophobic and, dare I say it, 'un-free'.

Mind you, people have been kind. I was setting off early yesterday morning and got a flat. With some difficulty (the stupid tire levers were too bendy...) I replaced the inner tube and then tried blowing up the tire again only to find the pump had stopped working. I was about to embark upon a 70 mile ride through the forests where there was no services, grocers or indeed people. The nearest bike shop was 90km the wrong way. My heart sank and I was close to tears (honest). hankfully an early morning runner came past, weighed up the situation fast and ran back to get a pump from his RV. This did the job :) What's more he gave me the pump and wouldn't accept anything for it. The kindness of strangers. I am thankful for little blessings like this that bring a sparkle to the day.

Some photos of the journey so far.

You know the thing that hurts the most?

It's not actually the thighs or the calfs or the knees.  It's actually the left shoulder...which freezes up and aches horrible.  I also get a tingling sensation in my left arm and hand.  Should I worry?

I remain amazed at how few people there are here. The last two campsites have had only noe other tent or RV in them.  I've still only met two other touring cyclists in over 800km of riding!   I admit to being a little lonely in the evenings.

I've ridden past Mount Rainer this morning. A beats of a former volcano with a rounded snowy top and glaciers draggin down it's sides.

I'm currently in Packwood, heading for Randall this evening.

The sun is hot.

I've eaten an awful lot of danish pastries and bananas!

Mike

Mike's a really sociable guy....honest

one of the useful things about a little jaunt like this is that it reminds me that , being human as I am, I need human interaction to survive.  A week where the only interaction I've had is 'can I camp here tonight please?' kind of doesn't meet the need for self-affirming contact.  Yep, I know you may find this strange, what with me being a deep introvert and all. It's good to be reminded of this reality.

I stayed in the Blu Shasta RV campground yesterday underneath the tall pine trees and beside a snow-melt river and was, frankly, a little lonely.  Don't smile as you read this.

Well, I am thankful for a little God-send in the form of two touring cyclists from San Francisco doing the same route as me.  They are the first tourers I've got to speak to so far.  I thought the route would be full of them but no, these are the first.  We shared some cherries, a tomato and tales of the road. It was heartening to realise I am not the only fool doing battle with logging trucks every day.

I've made it to Ellensburgh this morning with a good following wind after crossing Blewett's  Pass 4000+ft) before breakfast. I'll press onto Naches this afternoon to camp.

No bears yet...tho' the lady in the RV next to me last night said there had been one sniffing around the night before.  That's just enough encouragement to keep me on my toes - so to speak - when sleeping.  Conjure that image.

Thanks to you for your comments on the blog pages and facebook, They are a real encouragement

My legs are changing shape and colour....

I noticed it, as you do, when sitting on the toilet this morning. The bit of my leg that used to be all thin and chicken-leg-like just under the calf is now bulging with, well, either danish pastry and muffin (goodness knows I've eaten a lot of them recently) or else, maybe, muscle.

The legs below the cycling shorts are a sort of grimy grey brown.  This is a combination of suntan - despite the factor 30 I've been religiously applying, and grim from State Route 97 that I've been following, along with lots of huge trucks, for the past few days.


Having my old little body further than it should have gone yesterday in order to reach a library with internet access I was then only alloted 30 minutes.  It cruelly logged me off before sending my email to Biddy.  How's that for a downer at the end of the day.

I was actually craving some human company yesterday (honestly) and there was a little God-send in the RV-camping park in Chelan yesterday.  Tom and Janet from Vancouver (that's the Vancouver in Washington State not Canada) asked me over for a beer and chat.  What a lovely hour or so we spent.  I was so thankful to be able to speak with someone and get a glimpse of life in America from 'the natives'.

Another hot, hot day here in Washington State.  Too hot actually for me. how ever am I going to cope in California.  I got up early to beat the worst of the sunshine and I've pressed onto Cashmere with only one doubling back on myself as I encountered a road where the tarmac petered out to pot-holed gravel.  There's little worse that having to backtrack.

Time for a rest day tomorrow I think to rest those tired (and strangely shaped) legs.

It's a deer, right?

I've been sleeping really well in my tent till now (see last post) but was woken at about three this morning by, well, two sneezes inches from my head.  Now rabbits and chipmonks don't sneeze do they?  Wolves don't sneeze do they.  So it had to be a deer, right?  I put out of my mind the fact that there I was in the field all by myself with not another tent for miles and acres of mountain and forests around me.  Just the sort of place you'd find....deer, right?

A hard ride yesterday over Rainy Pass and Washington Pass.  Although it was never that steep (7%) it went on for a long time without stop (about 50 km).  As I topped out the dense forest with moss and kichen hanging from the trees and lots of waterfalls suddenly gave way to scrubby, dry mountains with scrawny looking Mediterranean trees.  I made it as far as Mazama and decamped at a cyclist-only campsite!  How about that!.  I was the only one there (hence the unease about the ....deer... at night).  It was effectively a big field with a solar heated shower hidden behind the bushes.  A delight!

Today has been a morning of big, big skies as I made my way down a wide valley with those yellow, scrubby mountains on each side.  Miles and miles of road by myself.    Lots of deer seen (see, I told you it was a deer last night) as well as squashed snake on the road.  I rolled in Pateros at lunchtime with 77km clocked up and was going to spend the night there after connecting up to the world couresy of the library BUT the library was closed on Mondays.  Little things like this can knock one's morale for six.  Grumpily I consulted the map and ?foolishly pressed on another 30km to Chelan in search of the library.  And here I am.   It was a hard 30km into the wind on a busy road.  It took me three hours.
\
Legs feeling strong.  In need of some company (yep really!).  I savour the few little human interactions I have....like the family watching hay being harvested using a horse drawn harvester who waved at me and the lady who sold me a blueberry smoothie at Pateros.


Got 110km under my belt today.  In need of a hot shower, grub and rest.


Can;t get the top off my Trangia cooker.  This somewhat stunts my cooking!

Thanks to those who have been kind enough to give me their comments. 

Now about tents....

Ah, my tent.

There's something wonderfully familiar and comforting in seeing the old friend, my home, appearing from the saddlebags.  Once up, there's suddenly something familiar, a piece of the world that's mine, my home, in the vast sea of unfamiliarity.  There's little to beat zipping up the tent, disappearing into the sleeping bag and settling down for the night.  Lovely.

first impressions of the US?

They drive big cars don't they

Everyone (well, apart from that customs officer in LA who seemed incapable of beleiving that the reason I was carrying a bike spanner was because I was going on a cycle tour...) appears really pleased to see me and eager to help.  is this for real?

The natives don't seem to understand what I say, even when I say it slowly.....

T-shirt spotted in a Mexican diner yesterday  "I don't call 911", with a picture of guns below it.  Hmmm.

Seattle is a lovely city.  Beautiful views across the bay and towards snow-capped mountains in ?Canada.

Most of the small towns have little that is picturesque.  There are lots of churches....but I do miss the sight of  church steeples and towers.

Captain Splog......
Thurs 18th Aug.    Took lovely train ride along the coast from Seattle to Bellingham.  Started the cycle tour at long last in Bellingham. Cycled on flat farmland plains where they were growing maise and berries (not in the same field you understand).   An easy days ride of 70 flat kilometers up to the Canadian border at Sumas.  Spent the night in a noise 'RV park' next to a busy road and a 'railroad'. 

Fri 19th Aug.  Up before six and cycling in the fog for the first hour. Lifted up to almost alpine environment:  large broad leafed and pine forests for mile after mile.  Clocked 115km this morning and feeling a little achy.

Spotted my first bald eagle on the Skagit river at lunchtime.  Other than that I am wondering where all the birds have gone?  A few swallow, starling, one grey heron and the bald eagle.  That's about it.  Perhaps they've shot them all. 

Signs I've seen along the way that make me smile.....  "No Shooting"  and 'Elk Crossing"

Spending this evening in a place called Concrete! 

Do I buy bear spray or not?

Sunny morning in Seattle

Smell of fresh toast in the hostel kitchen

Off shopping today.  Chain lube, food and....do I buy bear spray or not?

When he learnt that I'd be cycling down  the US and camping the customs official  said to me yesterday that that would be too dangerous to do.  "Because of the bears?"  I asked,  "No, no, because of the people".  Hmm. What sort of a place is this?

You can't take that bike on the plane sir.....

My heart sank as I was greeted with this at Heathrow this morning........but then he winked at me, checked in the bag and chose to ignore the fact that it was overweight (the bike, not me).  A bit of amusement for him but not funny for me.

The flight into LA served to underline just how massive and empty most of the US is. Am I really up to cycling all the way down to Mexico?  A stressful time in LA airport involved me having to pick up the bike box and charge across the huge airport for my connection which was made despite the customs official grumpily questioning me why I am carrying bike tools with me ("durr, something to do with going on a bike tour I think").

My first bit of miscommunication with the natives came when I asked if there was a trolley around.  "Ummm do you want a taxi sir?"  "no , a trolley please".  Once I mimed pushing a trolley he pointed me to the 'carts'.  Hmmm.

First glimpse of a snow-capped Mount Rainor from the plane.

First impresions.....the natives speak loudly nd give the impression of feeling really positive about things.  A cynical Brit in their midst will probably temper that.

Off to bed now. I've been up for 23 hours now.

Time to take my leave......

That's enough waiting around.  See you at Christmas.  Can you please tidy the place up whilst I'm away?  I don't want to find the metaphorical half-eaten toast still going smelly under the bed when I get back.

He's waiting for me!

Hmmmm..

....feeling unwell.  Just pre-ride nerves or show stopping I wonder?
Not part of the plan.

I need a ferret....

Yep, a ferret, according to Phil, is what I need to have to hand to pass to a grizzly if he attacks me.  This will distract him sufficiently for me to make my exit......apparently.


So....how do I keep a ferret with me for two months?  Should I tie him to the back of the bike and get him to run along behind me?  What do ferrets eat?  Can I get a ferret through US customs?  Answers on a postcard please.

Getting just a little nervous now.....:)

Time has taken on that peculiar 'stopped' feeling you get when waiting for a bus to arrive.  Everything is packed now and I'm eager to get off.  The prospect of departing makes me savour and value the precious things here: family (yep even those teenagers....), a solid roof, cricket, radio 4 (apart from grumpy John Humphries), the prospect of autumn smells and colours.

The bare minimum

...this is all I can manage to take with me to survive for the next two months.  It doesn't seem much does it....until you have to drag it up every hill.

Why would anyone want to go abroad to the US.....

....when there's such beautiful cycling on my doorstep....

Feeling a little furtive......

Cycling around Exeter early this morning I felt a little like a truant schoolboy.  I kept thinking that people might come up to me and ask 'why aren't you at work eh?'

What surprised me was just how many other people didn't appear to be at work either.  Haven't they got livings to earn and an economy to refloat?

Oh....it doesn't fit !

So.......how am I going to get my trusty stead to the US eh?

No going back now.....

Yep, I am now officially one of the unemployed.  Spare me a dime if you see me on the streets selling the Big Issues won't you?

I'm not saying I'm a scaredy-cat but look what I stumbled across in my reading this morning.....

A person shall not ...... physically assault or attempt to physically assault a Bicyclist because of, in whole or in part, the Bicyclist’s status as a Bicyclist.

Well done Los Angeles city council for passing the Cyclists’ Anti-Harassment Ordinance a few days ago.   I read that it is now an offence to threaten to physically injure a cyclist, intentionally injure or attempt to injure a cyclist just because he is a cyclist or intentionally force a cyclist off the road.


All good things.


It makes you wonder though.  Just how safe are those drivers in California if the local council felt it necessary to pass such a law?

Note to self.......

......whatever you do don't pull your back out in the garden in the run up to the big ride.

Ooops, too late. Already done.  Currently wincing with pain whilst sitting at my desk.  Hmmm

D'ya want to see some pickies of my journey? Then check out this link....

https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=51a3229f7a4126aa&resid=51A3229F7A4126AA!107&authkey=hR4SKvhyrcQ%24

The astute among you will realise that there are no pickies in this folder at the moment. Well, that's because the trip hasn't started yet.......

80km over Dartmoor to Plymouth. Squeaky bottom bracket and tired body. Am I too old for this?

Ready?

Ok....kit bought...lots of it.  Bike maintained.  New wheels bought.  Training going well: 65kms clocked today on a fully loaded bike and feeling strong.

The thing I've not yet 'trained' for though is being able to cope with my own company for two months.  Am I mentally strong enough for this yet?.....Yeah, reckon so ....though I'll need to think my way into this a little so that I strengthen this muscle too.  What sort of exercises can I do to get myself ready for this I wonder?

There's just the hint of nervousness appearing in my tummy.  I'm appreciating so much more the creature comforts of sofas, internet access, baths and warm beds (and family!) as I begin to realise that I'll be without these from mid August to mid December.  By, hey, life's more than comfy sofas isn't it?

New wheels ordered.....

When will the process of buying new things never stop........

Two days of training and what have I got to show?

. ..a broken spoke and a wobbly wheel. An inauspicious start eh? How will I manage when I'm doing this for real?

So a Black Bear is BLACK and a GRIZZLY bear is, well, grizzly, right?

This is an important question!  Of all the things that have troubled me most about this planned trip to the US are the BEARS.

This little scaredy-cat Brit has never shared the outdoors with bears before and the thought of lying in my tent at night listening out for every snort, snap and pant and wondering if this is the night I have ea close encounter with Ursus arctos horribilis has exercised me greatly.

So....I've done a bit of homework and concluded that.....

• Black bears aren't always black
• Grizzly bears aren't always bigger than black bears (and how do you compare them anyway unless the two species are are in front of you together)
• Bears like soap and sunscrean.  Yep, I know that they don't plaster it over their bodies....but apparently the smell of these left in your tent is enough to bring them out of the woods to check you out
• If a black bear attacks you, fight back with rocks, sticks, equipment, or your bare hands BUT.....
• .....if a grizzly attacks you then all you can really do is curl up in a ball and pray
• Bears are most active at dusk and dawn....just when I'll be pootling around the forest making my morning museli.
• Oregan state along is home to about 25,000 to 30,000 black bears

So...."just get a bear spray" I hear you say. Problem solved.  Listen to what the US National Park Service advice is about this... "Bear repellents even when effective, only work at such close range that depending on them could endanger you".  Hmmm.  Not really a strong endorsement of the efficacy of a bear spray is it?

I'm not sure all this head knowledge has really settled my fear much. :(

So, you want a more detailed map of the ride eh?

Check this line out...

Sierra Cascades route

Should I get my kit off?

That's the question that exercised me as I cycled into Exeter after a splendid sojourn via Moretonhampstead, Widecombe and HayTor this morning.   It's tempting ,I know, to relish the thought of feeling the wind whistle where it doesn't normally.  'What prompted this sudden rush of blood' I hear you ask.  Well, cruising along the Quay I came across several police cyclists accompanying a bunch of cyclists who....it took several glances to confirm....weren't wearing anything (that's the cyclists, not the police....)

I don't mean they weren't wearing the right sort of lycra - which, you will appreciate, is very important - they actually weren't wearing anything apart from a bike.  Yep, I stumbled into the world naked bike ride  ride this morning.  Good on you guys.   Good cause.  You're braver than I.  I couldn't rise to the 'as bear as you dare' challenge you posed me and our children were, strangely, strongly against their mum and dad joining in.

Perhaps next year?  Do you want to join me?

p.s. do you think it would be possible to spot a policeman if he went 'undercover' as it were with those World Naked Bike ride people?  I reckon I could still spot the infiltrator going undercover without any cover.

how few bike tools can i get away with? a wake up call

There I was, absolutely stonking along on this blustery but beautiful summers evening wondering how I need to reduce weight. What tools do I really really need I? Moments later I find myself sitting on a gate watching the sheep do what sheep do (see earlier blog post) with my chain wrapped around my back wheel. And yep, you guessed it: I've not got a spare chain link nor a chain tool on me. So...I sit here sheepishly awaiting a lift home in the car and feeling 'under tooled'. Note to self for US trip - take the right tools to keep yourself on the road.

California - dreaming of summer sunshine - don't bet on it

When planning this trip-thing down the length of America I imagined endless days of cycling under crisp blue skies worrying about whether I have enough suncream to survive.

Well, I've been tracking the weather in Washington, Oregon and California over the last month and I've come to the conclusion that the UK is both drier and warmer than any of the places I'll be travelling through. Even California!   Take today for example: Sand Diego is cooler than Exeter and is cloudy.  Modesto in California is wet and cooler.

Hmmm.  Makes you think.  Perhaps I should just cycle around Devon instead of heading off to the US.  What d'ya reckon?  A change of plans?  It would certainly solve my problem of how to transport my bike back from the the US.  This conundrum is still not solved. I was quoted $1900 for the privilege this week.  This is getting silly. 

will the goodies never cease?

one of the purposes fo my little bike ride around the Lakes and Yorkshire Dales was to test out my kit.  what did you learn i haryou say? Well one thimg i learnt is that carryimg 20kg of stuff on abike is hard work and anythimg that can be done to lighten the load must be grasped.  the books i carried: Bible, readimg book, maps and loal guide all mount up to quite a weight.  so........i've taken the plunge and bought (well been given as an early birthday pressie) this kindle thimg which alllows me to gaveaall my books on one small digita toy.  will it lightn the load? undoubtedley.  wat further justifivation do i need.

You want to take your bike with you?

Well, yes, I do actually. Cycling from the Canadian border down to the Mexican border will be a bit more challenging if I don't actually have a bike.


Hmmmm. The logistics of getting a bike as excess baggage on the plane and then shipped home from Los Angeles is proving a bit tricky. FedEx suggested it would cost me $900 for this shipping. Come on, get real man.

Should I just dismantle the bike entirely and secret it about my clothing as I get on the plane?

My trusty steed.....

...note the socks drying on the front pannier :)

Now about sheep.....

...You know what a shepherd's crook looks like don't you? Yep, of course you do. I bet you starred in your primary school nativity play brandishing a stick with a tin foil-covered coat haNger fashioned to look like a shepherd's crook. Well, my question is....have you ever seen a shepherd's crook used? Yep, I know you've seen David Massey catch Michele on the heel in the nativity play dress rehearsal...but have you ever seen a SHEPHERD use one to catch a sheep? No I guessed you hadn't. Me neither until I espied a shepherd catch a lamb about the neck this morning. So what? Well I concluded that shepherd's crooks actually have a use beyond nativity plays and tripping up the girls at primary school.

That's about as profound as my thoughts got this morning as I pulled my hAlf-hundred weight bike and panniers up the Yorkshire Dales in the driving rain and aganst the wind.

Another thought.....if sheep were frightening, dangerous or aggresive animals then wouldn't the farmers' job be much more difficult. I wonder if the adrenaline rush of herding a bunch of man-eating sheep would attract a different sort of person into farning?

Now that we are all wearing synthetic fleece
Where does all that wool go?

Why do you only see Cumbrian sheep in Cumbria but as soon as you cross into Lancaster they are nowhere to be seen. What's that all about eh?

Why haven't sheep evolved to be a little less timid of humans? Whenever one passes them they run a mile like their lives were at stake. (hmmm, perhaps they know what their ultiate fate is...and at the hands of man. So, I guess they've got good reason to be frightened of every approaching human).

i am definitely a digital immigrant.....

..Because as I lie here in my tent in a field in the middle of North Yorkshires (Hawes to be precise), looking up at the limestone escarpments, the dry stone walls and the sheep grazing I thinks its PRETTY NEAT that I can update my blog. Yep, I know Anna and Joe would roll their eyes at this because it's OBVIOUS that this is possible but I think its really clever.

What's the day held for me? Calls of curlew across the fields, peewit chasing each other and doing their amazing acrobatic stuff (do they do this just for fun or are they catching food on the wing?) And oystercatcher screaming as if I've offended them greatly. Now what are oyster catcher doing on limestone hills eh?

One further noteworthy thing: almost every field has a neat and well-kept little barn in it. We saw these before when Ja£mes and I walked the C2C but why are they so prevalent in Yorkshire but not elsewhere?

Cycled further than planned today (76km) and the last third into th eheadwind. Which takes it out of you. Washing done, bike computer safely charging in the site office. Time for a little rest I think.

not to self.....

Don't leave your only pair of cycling shorts 'drying' on your tent and then disapper to the pub which the thunder storm passes over. Your shorts will NOT get dry and you'll end the evening loitering next to thee only heater in the toilets, like some sad old flasher, waiting for your shorts to get dry (?or just warm and damp?)

when is a campsite not a campsite?

When it's a Caravan and Camping Site....which doesn't allow campers! Thanks Violet Caravan and Camping in Cockermouth. With a few extra kms under my belt I found a nice CAMP site in Low Lorton.

Coast to Coast....tick

Much harder than antiipated because of the fierce Easterly which made it hard work evene going downhill!

Now embarking on a week's circumnavigationof the Lakes. Luxuriating in the bluebell and garlic covering the woodland floors where new green leaves are appearing on the trees. Swifts spotted :). With all this cycling I am wondering if I'll have had quite enouigh time in the saddle by the time the Sierra Cascades ride begins.

pre-ride nerves

Sitting in a hotel in Whitehaven fueling up with scrambled eggs and wondering if everyone else os going to be fitter and stronger than me. Lovely sunny morning in Whitehaven. Coast to Coast ride here we come.....

can Mike add blog posts from his mobile?

Yes he can :)

It's a sunny day again.......

...so..... it's time to go cycling.
Orchids and bluebells currently out.  Swallow overhead.  No sign of the swift yet.

Where's the map?

A number of people have asked me where the map for the trip is.
Well, those kind people at the Adventure Cycling Association have pulled this together for me already. Check out their route thatI hope to follow here .....

http://www.adventurecycling.org/routes/sierracascades.cfm

Ah....it's no big deal....

My thanks to Peter for his encouragement this morning.  Thirty or so years ago he cycled across the US (East to West, the hard way) and reassured me that my planned 75km a day is perhaps going to be too little.  "What are you going to do with all that day left at the end of the ride?".  Ok, so it's going to be alright for me is it?

Apart from.....the dogs.  These gave Peter some run arounds in the US.  Ummmm.  I hate dogs.  I think I'd rather face the bears than uncontrolled American dogs.

Getting too cocky eh?

Hmmm.  Had a little run with the touring bike on Saturday. Clocked 97km on the roads around Bodmin and the Camelford trail.  That's respectable enough but I had no hills to speak of nor any weight to carry.  The next two days I was feeling all feak and weeble.  Am I going to be up to cycling an average of 75km in the mountains with a fully laoded rig every day for two months. 

Suddenly I am a little less confident........

Now I know how high I am.....

"about five foot eight", I hear you say. 

Yes, ok...but I can now tell how far this is from sea level and, critically, how far I have ascended today.  And I can tell my heart rate, my distance travelled, my cadence, the time to the next waypoint, when the sun rises and sets ("early every morning and every evening" I hear you say...) and lot's more besides.

And if you you don't realise just how satisfying this all is, and just how crucial this is for cycling then, I'm afraid, you just don't understand cycling.

Hurrah for the Garmin 705 bike computer that's arrived this week :)

p.s. am I getting too nerdy?

I've been rumbled.....

Yes, Biddy's now confirmed what she's suspected all along.  This bike tour thing is merely a sophisticated wheeze to buy more bike stuff.

'What's wrong with that?' I hear you say.  Well, um, absolutely nothing really.  There's always really sound, solid and justifiable reasons why a man needs to buy sports equipment and bike gadgets.   And that's just what I am doing, because it's NECESSARY to do so. Honest.

Latest acquisition...a Garmin 705 bike computer that'll make sure I make the rights turns travelling through the towns (even if they are only one-street towns....) of the US. It'll also tell me how high I've climbed and how far I've traveled.  An essential tool, I am sure you will agree.

Ok...next project. How am I going to charge the batteries if they last only 15 hours and I am two days from the nearest source of power.  Do I need to be surfing ebay again for a solar charger?

...and then there was insurance......

Being a fastidious fellow I wanted to get the proper insurance for my sojourn across the world.  Little did I know just how tricky this would be.  Ok, so I've had a little episode of AF over two years ago (when the heart didn't quick tick and tock correctly for a few minutes) but with the pounding I give the ticker three times a week on the bike I reckon it's up to the job.   I sort of understand though that this might put the premiums up.

What I hadn't anticipated is just how difficult it is to actually get at the small print of proposed insurance policies.   When you do get to them there are some wierd and wonderful policy statements that effectively mean I'm not covered. 

'What sort of wierd policy statements' I hear you say.....well, if someone in my family (that could be you living out there in Australia or up in London, or in the deepest North of England or down in Plymouth....) has had a medical check up in a hospital in the last 12 months then large parts of the cover is invalidated.  

Similarly, on the cusp of making a payment to one insurer I threw into the conversation that I was looking forward to my bike ride...only to then be told, well, if you are riding a bike then you will not having any of the personal liability cover.  That's kind of a risky place to be in litigious America I reckon.

Aaaanyway, after a long trawl over several evenings by the two of us we finally got signposted by the CTC to an insurer that'll cover me, 'dodgy' ticker and all, regardless of what the family have been up to and with confidence that if I run over the pet poodle of a litigious American I'll not have to re-mortgage my house. 

I won't tell you who this way....but I came away thinking...'That'll do nicely sir'

Flights booked :)

Yep, .....committed myself now.

Big amounts of money transferred this morning for a round-the-world ticket.

I'll be leaving the UK, Seattle-bound, on August 16th, returning from Australia on Dec 14th.

The detailed planning begins....

Yep, that's half the fun isn't it.

Initial review of ACA maps suggests that riding an average of 77km a day (not a lot...but remember some of those passes push 10,000ft...) then I reckon I can fly out to Seattle on Aug 7th and be flying out of San Diego by 9th October.

Hmmmm.  That's a lot of cycling isn't it

So where does Mike think he's going?

The descriptions of a route taking me past volcanoes, long stretches of forested countryside, busy towns, deserts, orchards and everything in between was too good to miss.  The thought of those 10,000ft passes is a little daunting but there's nothing there a bit of training, a tiny chain wheel and focused determination won't sort out. As for the bears though, hmmm, that's a different matter.
Check out the official route here http://www.adventurecycling.org/routes/sierracascades.cfm

The maps have arrived :)