Friday, 30 September 2011

USA......land of the Big Mac and Burger King.....

well, actually no. Until I rode into Palmdale today I don't think I'd actually come across a Macdonalds. I've spent the last few weeks popping into diners which are single, family-owned and quaint. I find it heartnening that this is so in corporate America.

What's also interesting is that one can pitch up at one of these diners at half past five in the morning and they are full of people having breakfast. The Americans seem to get up early and going out for breakfast.

Started cycling in the dark to get a headstart on the heat. Speediest 80km of the tour so far as we sped across the edge of the Mojave desert beside the San Andreas rift into Palmdale. All the signs starting to be in Spanish. A bit claustrophobic being in a city the size of Exeter.

Oiled and tightened the bike in my hotel room. A bit too hot to be camping...which is probably why there are no campsites.

Up into the mountains again tomorrow: the coolness a reward for the climb.

USA......land of the Big Mac and Burger King.....

well, actually no. Until I rode into Palmdale today I don't think I'd actually come across a Macdonalds. I've spent the last few weeks popping into diners which are single, family-owned and quaint. I find it heartnening that this is so in corporate America.

What's also interesting is that one can pitch up at one of these diners at half past five in the morning and they are full of people having breakfast. The Americans seem to get up early and going out for breakfast.

Started cycling in the dark to get a headstart on the heat. Speediest 80km of the tour so far as we sped across the edge of the Mojave desert beside the San Andreas rift into Palmdale. All the signs starting to be in Spanish. A bit claustrophobic being in a city the size of Exeter.

Oiled and tightened the bike in my hotel room. A bit too hot to be camping...which is probably why there are no campsites.

Up into the mountains again tomorrow: the coolness a reward for the climb.

USA......land of the Big Mac and Burger King.....

well, actually no. Until I rode into Palmdale today I don't think I'd actually come across a Macdonalds. I've spent the last few weeks popping into diners which are single, family-owned and quaint. I find it heartnening that this is so in corporate America.

What's also interesting is that one can pitch up at one of these diners at half past five in the morning and they are full of people having breakfast. The Americans seem to get up early and going out for breakfast.

Started cycling in the dark to get a headstart on the heat. Speediest 80km of the tour so far as we sped across the edge of the Mojave desert beside the San Andreas rift into Palmdale. All the signs starting to be in Spanish. A bit claustrophobic being in a city the size of Exeter.

Oiled and tightened the bike in my hotel room. A bit too hot to be camping...which is probably why there are no campsites.

Up into the mountains again tomorrow: the coolness a reward for the climb.

Wednesday, 28 September 2011

Some may thnik this is cheating.......

....but I can assure you it's not. John, my very kind host for the past two days, and I set off in the dark this morning from his home in Kernville , California to beat the heat and the traffic of the day. we climbed three nasty little summits, with the grade peaking out at 13%. I carried ALL my stuff, I can assure you but then at midday as the temperature moved into the nineties John's wife, Linda, kindly met us in the car and drove us home again! That's nice isn't it.

Tomorrow Linda will drive us up to where we left off today and we'll continue the route.

We needed to do this because the 60 miles or so from here south had nowhere to camp or stay and the land was privately owned.

I've managed to upload some more photos onto the Sky drive so have a look for the link to the right hand side of the blog page and you should be able to see these. Apologies that some are not aligned properly nor annotated but they'll give you a feel for what I've been staring at from my bike for the last few weeks.

Monday, 26 September 2011

Morning Mike, watch out for that blackwidow spider

I'd just woken to the sound of coyote howling at the moon. It was pitch dark, 5:30am and the warning came to me from behind a head torch as I pootled off to the toilet block. Needless to say that my morning ablutions didn;t take long and were conducted very carefully.

The warning came from Steve, a fellow tourer who'd pitched up at the campsite at Piedra the night before with the greeting "you must Mike be the British cyclist". In fact that's how I've been greeted a number of times recently. Steve, from San Diego, was really good company, filling me in on some of the politics and culture of the US as we rode the hard hard mountain up to Grant Grove Village to see the giant sequoia. It was good to ride with someone again. Whilst I took a rest day Steve headed off and John, from Kernville had pressed on a day earlier too. This meant that they primed every other cyclist in California to look out for me , hence the familiar greeting whenever I met a fellow cyclist.

I went to see the General. He was not particularly tall compared to the rest but with a girth to make any American proud. He's possibly 3000 years old I think. That is enough to cut one down to size and get every thing in proportion. Imagine a tree, in this case General Sherman, being that old. These giant sequoia are magnificent. Last night I pitched my tent at the feet a one of these giants at a place called Camp Nelson.

Guess what? I saw a bear, I really did, really, really honestly. I know you'll not believe me after the bovine mistake earlier in the trip. There was no doubting it this time. He looked kinda cuddly and smaller than I'd imagined but he really was an all American Californian black bear. Fortunately this was in broad daylight and I was in my bike. I might form a different opinion if I'd me him in the middle of the night when in my tent.

Today has been a lovely day. A climb of 2500 feet to reach the top of the mountain pass at 7500 feet, lovely and cool, giant trees surrounding me, clear blue Californian sky and then a big descent into the dry hills, alongside the kern river and into Kernville where I am staying with John and Linda. They invited me into their home after John and I cycled together near Yosemite. Isn;t that kind. And what a treat it is to sit here with a bed to sleep on tonight and a barbeque in the offing :)

Tuesday, 20 September 2011

It's the closest thing to being a modern day cowboy....

...that's what Larry told me in Yosemite yesterday as we chatted at the foot of Half Dome. "You can ride where you want and please yourself". I kinda agree with some of Larry's sentiment. There's a freedom to being able to wander across the massive continent. I can't quite wander over the prairies following cattle though since there are 'no respassing' signs on any private land and the wild, untamed land is not what my bike's kitted out for.

Life seems to have taken on a dream-like quality. I've lost track of the days and everything has boiled down to the simple necessities: water, somewhere to camp, food, the next milestone along the road. There's something very basic and fundamental about it all that is liberating. I realise of course that this is all a little false since Biddy is at home still dealing with all the 'stuff' that needs sorting just to exist in the world. I hope though that I can hold onto this.

Yosemite was indeed breathtaking. It made me want to hold my breath and whisper it was so beautiful and dramatic (both of which are a little tricky when you're at 9000feet and trying to drag body and bike up the pass....). An impressive gem. I am sure if I'd walked along the trails into the mountains I'd soon be shot of the crowds there.

I cycled out of the Yosemite valley this morning as the sun rose and tipped El Capitan with an orange, early-morning sunrise. Looking up at the 3000 foot wall I could just make out a couple of climbing tents affixed to the wall a couple of thousand feet up.

I've pressed onto North Fork today so that I can get a shower (somewhat overdue again) and connect back to the world. At the lower altitudes it's hot as I move into Southern California.

The last four days I've cycled with Harrold, a Californian retired sherrif. He, unlike me, has been able to upload his photos so if you want to see what we've been seeing these last few days check out his web site here www.crazyguyonabike.com/spandoman

John, a retired fireman from Southern California cycled with us yesterday and he and I bumped into each other again this morning. He is doing the Sirerra cascades route (pronounced "rowt" here...) so he and I will probably see a lot more of each other.

Spirits high. Traffic is busy enough to demand constant concentration. Legs bearing up remarkably well.

Friday, 16 September 2011

have a nice day.....

yes, I realise that it's just something that Americas say, like we might say cheerio or cheers but after five weeks of being wished a nicd day it still makes md smile and feel better

I reckon there's more to it than z mere automatic polite farewell though. I think it captures some of the sunny, positive outlook that Americans have. Not for them the negative, cynical and destructive approach that we seem to rejoice in in the UK.

I need to issue a correction about Diary Milk. The day after i bemoaned the absence of the food of gods - Diary Milk, i stubled across some for sale. I quickly bought a couple of big bars and, because of the heat, HAD to eat them quickly in one, mouth stretching scoff. I've seen no more for sale. It was just one of those God-given little gifts that have kept me going. What i said about Hershey bars though David HG stands.

Over the last few days i've repeatedly come across ntices tellinb me to be lbear aware'. They are here and active, i am assured. So, food, suncream, soap, mossy cream all gets wrapped in my air tight bag and hunb in a tree at night. This doesn't stop me tnougn from wakinb most nights at any little snuffle, crackle or pad in the night.

The landscaoe has changed. I've left the Cascades and moved into the Sierra Nevada mountains. Gone are the one-off 'strato volcanoes'. I'm amongst older mountains, jagged edges iron-ore tinged. I pulled my bike and body over Monitor Pass 8400ft this morning. Up there it was very quiet, the air was cool and clean, the view was blue-tinged. The lonb passes with 30km of climb are hard......but they are aften fol.owed by 30km of descent

I fear that the 'treat' of a cooked breakfast this morning at a cafe has possibly contributed to severe tummy upset this evdninb fortunately i'm in a caravsn with a toilet this evening rather than in a basuc campsute with a longdrop 100m away. Small blessings.

I'm in Bridgeport, California. Heading for Yosemite in a day or so.

The sun is setting on a spectacular vista of a wide plain with high, snow tipped mountains.

Beats going to work.

I met up with Harrold a touring cyclist from California on a two week ridd. It was good tl have some company for a change.

Thanks to you for your encouragement.

Monday, 12 September 2011

what's in a name?

Some of the names of things and places here are something to savour. T'other day I came over Dead Indian Summit, I've cycled pas numerous Big Bear Drives, I topped out at Dead Horse summit recently and cycled past Humbug Humbolt Road. Straight out of a JOhn Wayne Movie.

It's not just the road and pass names that are great. The RVs and trailers all seem to have names too that capture the essence of this place. Back in the UK we call our caravans things like Estelle, Comfort and Easy. Here they call their RVs Intruder, Wild Cat, Weekend Warrier. A different approach to camping I guess, and the name captures it all.

One little thing. I don't care what David HG says, Hershey bars just aren't very nice. There's something horribly sickly about the things that leave one feeling mildly uncomfortable. Can't beat a good Cadbury's Mil Chocolate.....and here in the US one can;t get a Cadbury's milk chocolate.

Have I been doing any cycling recently? You bet. I topped out at 8500feet this morning amongst the residual snow patches of Larssen Peak, a beautiful mountain area and the last of the 'stratovolcanoes' of the Cascades mountain range. I am now entering the Sierra Nevada mountain range. 105km clocked today to get me to a shabby little town of Greenville which, with a population of 1200 feels REALLY big and busy.

Last night I was treated to supper! A lovely evening round the fire with my fellow campers, Luke, jake and ?Maureen who are all travelers themselves and therefore 'get it' with what I am doing here. It was lovely to share stories and relax in the company of others. It beat that empty evening feeling one otherwise gets when settling down in a lonely campsite in the forest.

I ticked off 20km yesterday which mentally is half way . A good milestone....but makes me feel a little daunted that it is only half way!

Met a Belgian couple this morning who had to be in their mid sixties and were bike touring. They had just tcked off 3000km as I met them.

Thanks for all the encouragements, they are really strengthening to read.

Thursday, 8 September 2011

captain slog, eighth day of september

Well, I hear I've been having some complaints about the spelling in my blog posts. Well, sorry guys, but its a bit tricky when you're trying to tap away on a tiny mobile phone screen with a dodgy battery and an iffy wifi connection. I'll try my best to improve things. Indeed today I'm sitting at a computer screen for the first time in a fortnight or so in the library at Mount Shasta.

"But doesn't that mean you've reached California?" I hear you ask. Yup, you got it (am I begining to sound like an American yet?) I sped into California on a rather hairy 11km of the Interstate 5 yesterday afternoon. Reaching the third and final state is another milestone under the belt.

I hear also that you've been asking if I am enjoying myself. What an impertinent question. Who ever said I was doing this for enjoyment eh? I must admit that it is hard cycling - both physically, dragging my bike of 40+kg over the high passes day after day, and mentally, going day after day alone on the roads with miles of nothing but pine forest or high praire / desert. It's a little like when one goes for a really long run or walk. It's demanding, but when it's over you are pleased with yourself.

So, what is a typical day like? Well, it's a lot better than going to work, that's what I keep telling myself. Up at 6:30am as the day lightens. A banana is what I scoff for breakfast usually and the tent all packed by 7am. This means I'm cycling in the cool of the morning before the sun is really up and before the traffic starts. The smels in the morning re wonderful - some familiar, others less so. The forest is normally deadly quite apart from the occasional ground squirrel or raven. I cycle through the miles and miles of pine forest (I whish I knew the difference between the different pine trees so I could identify them properly) or, today through miles and miles of ?prairie with yellow grass. Every 30 or miles or so I might be lucky enough to come across a 'town' which may, or may not, contain a petrol station selling donuts (that's how they spell them) or even a general store when I can stock up on bananas, muffins, danish pastries, power bars, noodles and tuna.

It's still very hot: in the high nineties yesterday which, when I am low down is very hot. It means I am typically carrying about four or five litres on me.

What do I spend my time doing? Well, my brain falls into a bit of a pattern like this....

* watch the road, there's all sorts of glass and nails on the verge there...
* what's that coming up behind me/ Another massive loggin truck, has he seen me?
* how far is it to the next junction where there MIGHT be a store to buy more noodles
* how many metres do I need to cycle higher to reach the pass?
* have I got enough water to keep me alive? Where can I get more water?
* have I got enough food to today, where can I buy food?
* Where will I sleep tonight?
* will there actually be water at the campsite tonight (often no....)
* who should I be praying for today?
repeat ad neaseaum.....

occassionally I look up at the spendid views too! Today I've been cycling up to a the hugh Mount Shasta, a mountain-shaped mountain that was clearly a volcano not too long ago.

Last night I slept in the back yard of the vafe in Hornbrrok because there was no campsite and the lovely people in the cafe allowed me their space. Tonight I am hoping to book into a proper campsite with water and showers! I've not had a shower in four days now! Imagine that in ninety degrees of heat! Kim will be appauled.

I met anoher trouing cyclist today! A German guy who's three weeks into a circular tour from San Francisco. We shared lunch together, A reach encouragement.

I saw a bear yesterday! I was cycling in the early morning through the forest, as you do, and the forest was opening up a little. I heard a snuffling in the woods. Shall I cycle on? Shall I stop and look? I cycled on, heart beating. Then I had second thoughts and turned around to look and see. I peered into the forest and there it was, big, and hairy and black and.......looking just like a cow.....


Thank you for continuing to follw me. knowing someone is keeping half an eye on my progress is really encouraging me.

Sunday, 4 September 2011

I found out where all the cyclists are....

i cycked past a town called Bend yexterday and suddenly i found some cyclists. There was some sort ov organised race on, complete with motorcycle outriders and medic car. All of a sudden i turned into a street and found myself cycling towards a set of flags, a finishing line and hundreds of cyclistx parked up watching, well, me actually! What to do? Carry on to the finish line, wave to the crowd..... Over the tannot it was clear that the race riders were abiut to come round the corner. Do i continue? Well, i decided to pull up and squeeze behind tne barrier, just in time to witness a bunch sprint finish.

I continued on and up to Mount Bachelor at 6400ft. There were tens of cyclists, all on there lightweight bikes doing the Saturday mirning ridd up to the pass. They offered suitable encouragdment, which was what I needed on a climb of 50km.

Not a cyclist in sight today tnough. 100km of easier riding. Tomooriw I'll tackle Crater Lakes....climbung back up again to over 7000ft. theses passes are taking it out of me.

Thursday, 1 September 2011

can i refill your soda sir?

here's a neat thing about the US. When i pass throughnthe occasional little town i'll sometimes treat myself at the diner. i've struggled to find a menu that includes any vegetables and even the salads come dripping with cheese and creamy stuff. However, one time i took up the offer....only to find that i dudn't get charged for thebrefill. this, it sees, is quite normal. I can get as many refills as i like...all fir free. This tickles me.

Stonking day yesterday: 8.5hours cycling through deep forest, no buikdings, about 20 cars all day. Yet another lovely camoground...but again with no water to wash with. after three days of sweating on the bike and without a shiwer i was beginning to smell a little fruity. So i've treated myself to a day off in a motel at Detroit Lake. There are some people here! In this tiwn of 200

how much is a nickle worth?

being a man i tend to shop with paper money and thereby accumulate sackfuls of change. no problem at home of ciurse since i can always give this small change to buddy to use. however, when one has to lug this half hundredweight of metal over several high passes everyday it makes ine tnink.....'hey, i wonder if there's something i can do to get rid of all that metal'? so....whilst shopping in Hood River i bring out my sack of change in the grocer. Trouble is....i don't really jnow what the money is worth...and my eyesught is now too poor to read whatls written on the coins. So, i start fumbling with the multiple sikver and briwn coins at the check out. I pull out a silver coin and ask the assistant 'what's this?' that's a nickle sir, says the assistant patiently. Trouble is, i don't know whzt a nickke is woth. Is is ten cents or fifty cents? Search me.

Now from all the cowboy movues i've watched i've hears about nickles and dimes but i've no idea how to shop wuth them.

With the queue griwing behind me the assustant finally takes my bag and picks out the right amount of change to pay my bill. all sirted....except, i've still no idea what a nivkle's worth.